Title:  Notes for the Traveller

Distances and Altitudes Where to Go When to Go How to Get There
What to Bring What to Do Precautions Suggestions

Included in this section are precautions and suggestions for the traveller to Hemkunt Sahib and the Valley of Flowers. If you plan to go, take these travel notes along with you, and share them with family and friends.

Rishikesh to Gobind Ghat 250 km by road 12 hours

Gobind Ghat 1828 m altitude

Gobind Ghat to Gobind Dham 12 km by footpath 4 to 7 hours

Gobind Dham 3049 m altitude (~10000 ft)

Gobind Dham to Hemkunt Sahib 6 km by footpath 2 to 4 hours

Hemkunt Sahib 4329 m altitude (~15000 ft)

Gobind Dham to Valley of Flowers 3 km by footpath 2 hours

Valley of Flowers 3500+ m altitude

Hemkunt Sahib and the Valley of Flowers of course!

Most people access these places from Hardwar or Rishikesh. Both towns are gateways to the Uttarkhand Himalayas. Some people also travel from Paonta Sahib or Naini Tal where there are historical gurduaras to visit.

Because the journey from Hardwar/Rishikesh is long (twelve hours), it is advisable to halt for one night along the motor road. The road passes through many towns before reaching Gobind Ghat. Gurdwara accommodation is available in Hardwar, Rishikesh, Srinagar, Joshimath, and Gobind Ghat. Hotel accommodation is available everywhere.

Other sights to see in the Uttarkhand Himalayas include the Panch Prayag, the Panch Kedar, Auli, and Badrinath.

The road to Gobind Ghat passes through all five of the Panch Prayag (sacred river confluences). Towns, temples, and bathing ghats mark the places where major tributaries join the holy Ganges.

The Panch Kedar are five shrines dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. All are accessible by footpath and are some of the most beautiful treks in the region. Kedarnath, the most famous shrine, is 14 km up a scenic trail from Gaurikund. Tungnath is reached after a much shorter trek from the hamlet of Chopta, which can be accessed from the road between Chamoli and Gaurikund. Tungnath temple is almost as high as Hemkunt Sahib, and from the top of the Chandrashila peak above it there is a spectacular view of the Himalayan ranges.

In Joshimath, you can board Asia's longest ropeway (cable car) for a ride up to Auli. Auli is one of the finest ski resorts in India during January and February. In the summer, you can walk through high altitude meadows of flowers. One of the best views of the famous Nanda Devi peak can be had from the ropeway. Back down in Joshimath, one of the maths of Shankaracharya, there are several ancient Hindu temples.

Badrinath is the most important Hindu pilgrimage centre in the Himalayas. It is one of the Char Dham set up by Shankaracharya, one in each of the four corners of the subcontinent. The famous old temple there is dedicated to the God Vishnu. Badrinath is located one or two hours beyond Gobind Ghat at the end of the motor road. The barren high-altitude landscape which surrounds Badrinath is something to see. Rocky peaks surround the town, and there is a hot spring for bathing. A short walk away is the Bhotia town of Mana, the last village before the Tibetan border, and the spectacular Vasudhara waterfall.

The route to Hemkunt Sahib and the Valley of Flowers normally opens on about June 1st and closes during the first week of October. For clear skies and views, the best times to go are June and September. For flowers the best times to go are July and August. The weather is warmest in June before the monsoon rains begin, but June is also the busiest time. It can be very difficult to find space to stay in the gurdwaras and hotels during mid- to late-June.

Most Sikhs who visit Hemkunt Sahib travel as members of jathas (large groups of pilgrims). Jathas originate in Bombay, Delhi, Kanpur, and many places in Punjab and abroad.

Public deluxe buses do not run between Hardwar/Rishikesh and Gobind Ghat. Unless you arrange to travel with a jatha on a chartered bus, you will be unable to travel by deluxe bus. Your alternatives are to take a local bus, hire a jeep or car, or travel in a shared taxi (press taxi) originating at one of the newspaper vendors in Rishikesh. Travel is much faster by car, but some pilgrims opt to ride bicycles or walk all the way from the plains!

Bring good footwear for walking. Waterproof hiking boots with ankle supports are best. At times it is necessary to walk across snow. There may also be muddy or washed-out sections of the path.

Be prepared for bad weather. The temperatures at Gobind Dham and Hemkunt can be very cold. You are advised to dress in layers which can be added or removed depending on conditions. Bring more clothes than you think you will need, including woollen or fleece pullovers, a waterproof jacket, and even rain pants if possible, a hat, gloves, and warm socks. Dress lightly when you begin the trek at Gobind Ghat. Change to warm, dry clothes as soon as you arrive in Gobind Dham. When you go up to Hemkunt, bring an extra sweater or shawl to put on after you reach the top.

An umbrella is recommended. During July and August it rains every day, sometimes all day. Expect rain in June and September as well. At the beginning and end of the visitor season, snowfall is a possibility at high altitudes.

There is electricity at Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham (mornings and evenings), but it is not reliable. Always carry a torch or flashlight if you are out walking after sunset or before sunrise. Also carry one when you go up to Hemkunt. You may need it on the way back down. For many people, the journey takes much longer than they expect, and they end up walking after dark. Matches and candles are available in for purchase, but consider bringing some with you as well.

Carry sweets, dried fruits, and nuts for when you need energy on the trek. Make certain each person carries his or her own in case your group becomes separated on the path. And do not forget to carry water. It is easy to become dehydrated during strenuous exercise, and the local water supply is not safe to drink. Tea, cold drinks, and bottled water, while available along the trail, are expensive. Consider bringing some extra sweets to hand out to others along the way who need them.

Using a walking stick will help you to keep your balance and your rhythm while you are walking.

Bring first aid supplies and medicines with you: A.S.A., paracetamol, or other pain killers; a full course of a broad-spectrum antibiotic; cough medicine; antihistamines; Pepto Bismol or another remedy for upset stomach; gauze, tape, and bandages. There are government appointed doctors in Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham, army dispensaries in the gurdwaras, and an army hospital in Joshimath, but be aware that medical care in the region is very basic and limited.

In Gobind Ghat, parking for vans, cars, jeeps, and scooters is available near the river. Buses must park along the main Rishikesh to Badrinath road. From there, the main part of Gobind Ghat is accessible by walking along a smaller road which slopes down toward the river.

Accommodation is available in the gurdwara and in several guest houses. Small shops in Gobind Dham sell tea, supplies for the trek, and souvenirs. Rubber-soled shoes, plastic raincoats, walking sticks, water bottles, and sweets are available for purchase, as are an assortment of photos of Hemkunt Sahib, kirpans, karas, khangas, kachhiras, patkas, malas, simarnas, bangles, toys, souvenirs, cassettes, and books.

The largest buildings in Gobind Ghat are all part of the gurdwara complex. The main entrance to the gurdwara is to the left, just before the suspension bridge over the Alaknanda. When you enter the courtyard, steps lead up to the gurdwara on the right. Ahead are more steps, which lead to the manager's office where donations can be made, to the langar, and to some of the sleeping halls. Also ahead is the reception desk where visitors go to be assigned rooms and blankets. To the left is the old langar and the shoe storage facility. Behind, and across the street are more sleeping rooms, another blanket store, and the cloak room where travellers can check their extra luggage.

There is a government doctor and dispensary in Gobind Ghat. Dhobi (clothes washing and pressing) services are also available.

Ample toilet facilities are available in Gobind Ghat, and there are ghats (steps down to the water) for bathing in the Alaknanda river.

Depart from Gobind Ghat as early in the morning as possible. The journey by foot to Gobind Dham takes approximately 5 to 7 hours. By mule it takes 4 hours. But be aware that it can take much longer, depending on the fitness level of group members, and on trail conditions.

The path from Gobind Ghat to Gobind Dham is approximately 12 km in length. It zig-zags up a steep hillside for the first 2 km, then levels out. The village of Pulna (2,104 m), visible from the path 3 km above Gobind Ghat, is the winter residence of the people indigenous to the valley. From Pulna it is 5 more km to their summer village, Bhyundar (2,592 m). After Bhyundar the path becomes steeper and more difficult. When you cross a bridge over the Lakshman Ganga stream, you know it is only 3 m more to Gobind Dham.

There are tea stalls all along the path where visitors can rest. Tea, coffee, cold drinks, bottled water, biscuits, sweets, Maggi noodles, and paranthas are available at most shops. Note that the prices of all items increase the farther away from the motor road they are sold. It is best to carry in your own water and fruit.

Facilities available in Gobind Dham include the gurdwara for lodging and langar, plus more than 40 shops, more than 30 restaurants and tea stalls, and more than 15 hotels. The selection of food and goods is limited because all supplies must be brought up by mule or by porter. Prices can be high due to transportation costs, and they become even higher if there is a lot of demand.

A government (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) Tourist Rest House and a Forest Rest House provide rooms and dormitory beds for visitors. Reservations can be made from Delhi, Rishikesh, or Srinagar.

The journey to Hemkunt Sahib can take as little as one and a half hours, and as much as six hours. The average journey time is three to four hours. Because of uncertain weather conditions it is advisable to leave Gobind Dham for Hemkunt as early as possible. The majority of pilgrims start their journey between 4 and 6 a.m.

The path from Ghangaria to Hemkunt is approximately 6 km in length. There are numerous shortcuts that can be taken to shorten the journey, but the energy they require is often greater than the time they save. A final shortcut takes visitors up 1,200 stone steps. The alternative is a zig-zag stone path. Only the steps are accessible in early June before the snow covering the longer path has melted. During this time, mules cannot go past the place where the snow begins, so it is necessary to walk for the last one or two kilometres. By the end of June, mules can go all the way up to Hemkunt.

When you reach Hemkunt Sahib, tea is available in the gurdwara. If you plan to bathe in the lake, do it before taking tea, before your body has had time to cool off from the climb. Men bathe in the lake itself. A separate bathing room for women has been built inside the lower storey of the gurdwara. If you can, change to dry clothes after your bath so that you will not feel as cold.

If you want to do parikarma (circumambulation) of the lake, wear good shoes. The slopes are steep and slippery, and on the far side of the lake it is necessary to scramble over large rocks.

There are no facilities for checking your shoes before you enter the inner sanctum of the gudwara. Remove them on the lower storey, cover your head, and climb the cement steps to the upper storey. The Guru Granth Sahib is enshrined under a beautiful brass canopy. A limited number of blankets are available for people to use while they are inside the gurdwara. Donations commonly made at Hemkunt Sahib include rumalas (beautiful cloths used to cover the holy book), ghee (clarified butter for making parshad), dried fruits and nuts, silk flowers, brass ornaments, and blankets.

Ardas is said at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily. Kirtan continues throughout the day.

Langar is not served at Hemkunt Sahib, but parshad is distributed at the conclusion of each Ardas. Nearby tea shops sell food and cold drinks. Other vendors sell water bottles, malas and simarnas (bead rosaries), and patkas (cloth head coverings).

Staying overnight at the gurdwara is not permitted.

The two best known species of flowers that grow near the lake are the greenish-yellow Brahma Kamal and the Himalayan Blue Poppy. They are both native to the region, growing only at very high altitudes.

The weather conditions at Hemkunt are unpredictable and path conditions are uncertain. It is advisable to begin the descent back to Gobind Dham as early as possible. The descent takes an hour or more, averaging two hours. Budget for more time than that to allow for rests and difficult trail conditions. Sunset throughout the season is at around 6 p.m. Make certain you allow enough time to make it back to Gobind Dham before dark.

There is an entry fee for the Valley of Flowers National Park, which is much higher for foreign nationals than for Indian nationals. Entry permits can be obtained from the Forest Checkpost located at the entrance to the Park, half a kilometre above Gobind Dham. There is also a fee for still cameras. Video cameras are not allowed in the park without prior permission from the Chief Wildlife Warden in Lucknow. Be certain to obtain a written entry permit, as this will give you access to the Valley for three consecutive days and ensure that your permit money goes toward the upkeep of the park.

Mules are not allowed past the Forest Checkpost. Overnight camping, collection of plants and flowers, and littering are not permitted in the Valley of Flowers. Visitors are asked to keep the national park clean by carrying all garbage with them.

As there are no tea stalls on the way to the Valley, visitors are advised to carry their own food and drink.

Good trekking shoes and raingear are a must for the trek to the Valley. The conditions of the path vary along its length. At times it is necessary to walk across snow, and at places the path becomes very narrow.

After the Forest Check Post it is another 3 km walk to the Valley. Most people take between 2 and 3 hours to cover this distance. The path is much less steep than the path to Hemkunt Sahib. There are flat and downhill sections, as well as zig-zag uphill sections. The Valley begins on the other side of a bridge across a small river.

Once inside the Valley, a stone path meanders through the park. Visitors can walk for 2 km before coming to the first of several streams. Crossing them can be difficult during the rainy season as there are no bridges. One stream must be crossed to reach the monument to Margaret Legge, a British naturalist who fell to her death in 1939 while researching the flora in the Valley. Most visitors travel only a kilometre or two inside the Valley before returning to Gobind Dham. Adventurous trekkers can follow the Valley floor for 8 km before coming to the Tipra glacier at its far end.

Landslides are common along the motor road, especially during the rainy season (July and August) and may delay travel. Drive slowly and carefully, and heed all traffic signs.

The foot path from Gobind Ghat to Hemkunt is often congested with traffic. Walk on the inside of the path to avoid being knocked off the edge by passing mules, cows, sedan chairs, or people.

There is an (inadequate) registration system for porters and mules. Be vigilant to ensure that none of your belongings go missing. As a measure of security if you hire a porter of mule, ask for an identity card or token and keep it with you throughout the journey. There are police posts in Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham should any problems arise.

Altitude sickness is a very serious risk along the journey to Hemkunt Sahib. Here are a few tips for keeping yourself healthy: Spend as much time as possible in the hills before going all the way up to Hemkunt. Your body adjusts to the altitude slowly. Don't let yourself become chilled or dehydrated. Dress in warm, dry clothes and drink plenty of tea, water, juice, or soft drinks. Try not to become over-tired. Watch for the following symptoms of altitude sickness: headaches, difficulty breathing, cold extremities, dizziness, disorientation, vomiting. If you or members of your group have these symptoms, go back down. Altitude sickness can be life-threatening. Once a lower altitude is reached where more oxygen is available in the air, the symptoms will be alleviated in a short time.

Check any excess luggage in the cloak room at Gurdwara Gobind Ghat.

Mules and porters can be hired in Gobind Ghat for all or part of the journey. Luggage, a child, or a small adult can be carried in a kandi, a bamboo basket. A larger person can be carried by four porters in a dandi, a sedan chair on poles. Rates for hiring mules and porters vary depending on the volume of visitor traffic.

There are few garbage disposal facilities along the route. Avoid throwing sweet wrappers, juice boxes, plastic raincoats, and other garbage on or beside the path. If you see a garbage can, use it! To keep the natural environment clean, you are asked to carry out with you the wrappers, containers, and bottles for all food and drink you consume.

There are no bathroom facilities between Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham, and between Gobind Dham and Hemkunt. At Hemkunt the facilities are very limited. They are located down a staircase from the lake. You are asked to use these facilities so that you do not to pollute the holy lake.

Receipts are issued for all donations to the gurdwaras. For a donation of Rs. 101 or more, you will receive a saffron-coloured sropa and a bag of dry prashad when you present the receipt at Gurdwara Gobind Ghat. As an alternative to giving cash donations, groups and individuals can donate goods as their seva (service) to Hemkunt Sahib. Individuals can supply blankets, food items, and construction materials. Groups can organize to carry out larger projects and services. For example, a jatha or family might donate the materials and labour to construct additional toilet facilities at Hemkunt or along the route. Cleaning of kitchen utensils, floors, and garbage also needs to be done in the gurdwaras and along the footpath. Consider making seva a part of your visit.

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